10/18/06 - back in Lima

After a week or so in Puerto Chicama, the much-anticipated big swell finally hit the long shore that had become our temporary home. Surfers and non-surfers alike spent the day transfixed by the mile-long break and the logistics of riding it…over, and over, and over again. The next morning Jax and I packed our sandy clothes up, settled our tab with El Hombre, and caught an overnight bus back to Lima. Our plan was to spend a few days in Lima before heading east, into the mountains of central Peru. We returned to the same hostel we had stayed at when we first arrived in Lima, because we had made friends with a few of the people who worked there and were hoping they would let us leave Jax’s surf gear in storage there for a couple of months, until it was time for us to fly home for the holidays. Well…there was the storage issue on the logistical end, but we also wanted to play ping-pong in the hostel courtyard, have a few cubra libres poured by our favorite hostel bartender, and enjoy an evening out on the town together…an actual date!

As I’ve mentioned before, the emails I’m posting here read exactly as they did when I sent them out from the road. So for what it’s worth, the email below was written in the aftermath of an emotional melt-down, the wake of which sent me hunting all over South America for a pair of Levi’s roomy enough to accommodate my bootylicious curves and long legs. ;) Jumping ahead a little in the chronological events of this trip – I can now report with absolute certainty that IF there is a pair blue-jeans for sale in South America that was tailored with the "average" 5’10” woman in mind, I certainly did not find it. So although it’s not always "practical" to carry a pair of jeans around while backpacking, when a girl needs a great pair of jeans, she really NEEDS a great pair of jeans! I’ll never travel without them again…or without a cute skirt and a tube of mascara.

For the Ladies in My Life

Date Oct 18, 2006 8:12 PM

Dear Mom, Sisters, Aunties, Cousins, and Friends:

Hello ladies! I began feeling the need to send out a girls-only email yesterday afternoon (explanation to follow) and an email (see below) that I received from my good friend Diane sealed the deal. Although we´ve only been on the road for a couple of weeks now, I am absolutely fascinated by the innate, learned, unavoidable, and indisputably exhilirating similarities shared by people of different nationalities, religions, languages, politics, and (last but not least) sexes. All of these feelings seem to be epitomized by the following photos of predator and prey in the most tender of positions.

Speaking of predator and prey, it was the preparation for an incredibly indulgent and carniverous FEAST that made me wish I had a magic lantern from which would spring a female friend or, at the very least, a Lancolme counter lady. Yesterday morning, after arriving back in Lima after an overnight bus trip from Puerto Chicama, Jax suggested that we splurge on dinner at an Argentinian steak house. WA HOO! Over the past week in Puerto Chicama, we´ve been eating a lot of fried meats (mostly chicken and fish) and buttery rice, which has left me CRAVING fresh salads, veggies, GRILLED meat, and WINE.

But alas, while still excited over the prospect of our date, my stomach dropped (as only women will understand) because my wardrobe at the moment consists entirely of functional and not-the-most-flattering-in-the-world clothes for backpacking, hiking, and camping...not to mention the complete lack of makeup and accessories! Argh. I must admit that I have always prided myself in being a ¨tomboy¨ sort of girl, while still enjoying things like flowing gypsy skirts and sparkly eye shadow. I should have predicted that at some point, I would need something to satisfy more of the fun, flirty girl in me and less of the durable, hairy mountain woman in me!!

Well everthing turned out beautifully in the end - dinner was absolutely incredible and we had a fantastic evening together! As for the outfit, I improvised a bit, resolved to go shopping today, generally bucked up, and felt pretty darn good when we walked out the door. The moral of this story (and the purpose of this email) is that a woman should never ignore, inadvertently or not, the small things about being a woman that contribute to how she perceives her overall femininity, regardless of to what degree that may be. For me, as it turns out, I need to following minimal factors in order to feel fun, flirty, and fully feminine: clean hair, lip gloss, fresh panties, and something that would NOT be entirely practical to go hiking in. ;)

I hope you are all doing well. Thank you for being a part of my life and for reading this email!

Take care,

Aubrey

Stand By Me

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Us-TVg40ExM&feature=email

This is one of the coolest videos...EVER. I watched it in the office and totally got teary-eyed. I think it was the Travel Bug in me coming alive again. ...but not really coming "alive" again so much as just waking up. Like my Travel Bug has been sleeping for awhile...or maybe even hibernating. Now that I think of it, the Travel Bug is kind of like malaria...once you get it, it never really goes away. It just sinks into remission following extended doses of fluorescent lighting and Blackberries and ironed slacks that cover up that cool ankle tattoo. Well, maybe that's not exactly like malaria. Hm. And I guess another pretty big difference would be that long-term effects of the Travel Bug include global adventures and cool stuff like that, not holes in the brain and occasional bed-confining episodes of tropical mosquito-transmitted nastiness. I love my Travel Bug. But malaria...not so much. So apparently the whole malaria/Travel Bug analogy doesn't quite work...except that once you get bit, you're a carrier for life!

I think I'm allergic to fluorescent lighting.

10/13/06 - Puerto Chicama

Jax and I began our journey through South America in Lima, Peru, where I learned about foreign currency, and ceviche (still the best I've ever had!), and backpacker hostels, and South American buses. After a few days in Lima, we traveled west to Huanchaco, a little beach town on the coast of Peru, where we stayed for a few days before continuing north to the infamous surf spot of Puerto Chicama.

My sister gave birth to a son (in California) while Jax and I were in Huanchaco. I will NEVER forget standing in my bare feet at a payphone on the beach, wearing the shorts and tank top I had slept in, and frantially trying to work my way through the Spanish commands on my international phone card. I finally gave up with the phone card and started making my way back to the hostel, feeling very defeated and very close to tears. An old man sitting in a folding chair on the sidewalk stopped me, asking what was wrong. My Spanish was still pretty limited and I just sort of blurted out, "Senor! Un bebe! Mi hermana! Un bebe nuevo! Oh, OH, mi una TIA! Mi hermana...uh...un bebe...uh...nuevo bebe!"

Jax walked up at some point and translated for me, explaining to the man that I needed to call my family in the United States. The old man considered me mildly, then shuffled into the little shop behind him, returning moments later with an old roatary phone. He held out his gnarled fingers and I pressed my phone card and the number to the hospital into his hand. He slowly dialed the numbers then spoke to the operator, handing the reciever to me just as the line crackled to life in California. I only spoke with my sister for a few minutes, but it was well worth it!

From Huanchaco, Jax and I took a bus to the dusty little town of Puerto Chicama, which is home to a world-famous surf break that, on a big day, is supposed to be rideable for more than TWO kilometers. Some surfers hire local men with motorboats to tow them back to the top of the wave after riding it more than a mile down the beach! Other surfers just walk.

Jax and I ended up staying in Chicama longer than planned because the surf reports said a big swell was on its way up the coast, and we figured it would be silly to travel all this way, just to miss the big wave by a day or two. I wasn't surfing at Chicama - I've never really gotten the hang of it but more than that, Chicama was just a little more intense than I felt comfortable diving in to. But I was more than content to just kick back and relax for a few days - the weather was beautiful, we were staying in a great little hostel with cool travelers, and there was plenty of exploring to be done.

The first email I sent home from the road was on October 13th...

Puerto Chicama...To Surf or Not to Surf...
Date: Oct 13, 2006 11:16 AM

Buenos dias!

We are now in Puerto Chicama, Peru. As those of you in the surfing world know, Chicama is a world-famous wave - a laft-hand break. On good days, a surfer can be barrelled in Chicama for one mile or more! Even so, there are not many tourists here, probably because it is not convenient to travel here. We are staying in a hostel called El Hombre, which has been around since the early 70´s. El Hombre sits on a huge bluff overlooking Chicama from about a half-mile away. The man who started El Hombre - the original hombre - is still around, and hangs out on the front porch of the hostel most days. Now his daughter runs the place - I only know her as Senora - and she is definately thë mother hen of the place! El Hombre is packed with surfers from all over the world and only a couple can speak (a little) English, so my castellano (spanish) is improving rapidly.

Jax is in heaven here!! While he´s out surfing I´´ve been exploring town, walking on the beach, reading, and writing....I even practiced a little yoga in a deserted cove yesterday! Today Jax ventured up to another beach called Pacasmayo with a couple of Aussies we met down in Huanchaco and I stayed back at El Hombre to hang out with the Senora and generally lounge about...maybe I´ll go for a jog later...

This part of Peru is true desert. It is very dry and windy here, although the beach is blocked somewhat by giant cliffs. From the edge of town, you can look for miles and miles across completely desolate land. The town of Puerto Chicama is very poor. All ¨roads´ are dirt, except for one which the buses use. Many homes have thatch (reed) rooves and some also have thatch walls. Walking around town I am instinctively cautious, although the people here have been very friendly. I have found it difficult to take photos in town because I feel both afraid (that my camera could be stolen) and embarrassed (that I have it). For now, I´ve taken as many photos as I can without being noticed.

** Observations **
- Chicken feet seem to be very popular in the markets here, though I have yet to try one!
- Most of the toilets do not have seats on them...you just have to perch delicately on the porcelain rim and make sure to bring your own paper!!!
- Showers are a luxury and hot water is a plus....dust, dirt, and mud are your friends.
- Ceviche is deliciooous and exceptionally fresh in these ocean towns....but sometimes a bit too fresh.

¡¡Cuidado!!

Okay gotta run now - ah never enough time!

Hasta luego,

Aubreyv

09/21/06 - Hasta Luego!

Did you know that Lonely Planet gives awards for "best travel blogs"?! It's true - check it out - http://lplabs.com/2009/03/27/the-2009-lonely-planet-travel-blog-awards-winners/. I got a personal email from Lonely Planet about the award winners just this morning. I actually got a little jealous. Yes, a true Scorpio I am. Tinge of jealousy aside, reading other people's travel blogs was enough to get me typing again. And so, with no further adu, here's the very, very, VERY first travel email I ever sent, in anticipation of the Great South American Adventure of 2006...

HASTA LUEGO!!!
Date Sept 21, 2006

Dear Friends, Loved Ones, and Trouble Makers,

This is a warning that you are officially on my travel email list! Starting around October 4th, you can expect to receive emails from South America and various other places around the world over the next six months (or more)! I'll send out updates from the road, and let you know as our plans develop। Jax and I are heading to Peru on October 4th, returning to California on December 21st. Our current plan is to explore Peru, Chile, Argentina, Patagonia, and Brazil by train, bus, car, foot, and surfboard for the next three months or so. We'll be back for about a week over Christmas, then it's off to the west - towards Southeast Asia, Australia, New Zealand, and Indonesia. Besides our round-trip tickets to Peru, further travel arrangements have yet to be made, although there are many plans in the works - New Year's in Costa Rica and harvest season in New Zealand are at the top of my list, for starters! :) Please let me know if I left someone off this email list, if I have a wrong address, or if you receive duplicate emails. My cell phone will be deactivated while traveling, but I'll be in touch via email whenever I can get to a computer.

Take care and keep in touch!

Love,
Aubrey

Two Options

Did you think I forgot about my travel stories, my dearest darlings of the cyber-world? Well do not fret, I have not forgotten. I just write in spurts. Tonight I am finally working on travel stories again and will be posting on the journey before the clock strikes midnight! At least, that's my short-term goal. I've been distracted lately by the progressive atrophying of my cast-enclosed limb - and speaking of (one final diversion from the primero SAmerica story) - I do have an update on the broken bones. I have a follow-up appointment with the doc in a few days, but unless my calcium supplements are mysteriously turbo-charged, it is highly unlikely that I will be freed of this awful bone-holder-togetherer within the next month...at least. But that's okay.

This is my Grand Exercise in Patience, and probably the only thing that will get me to exhaust my arm muscles on a daily basis. And technically speaking, I did SORT OF ask for the cast. I actually had two options:

Option #1: Let the doctor put two screws in my ankle to hold the rickety tibia together, or

Option #2: Set my ankle in a non-weight-bearing cast for 6 - 8 weeks and wait for my body to heal itself.

I just don't like the idea of setting off metal detectors for the rest of my life...although I've been cursing that decision on a daily basis.

I am coming to terms with my limited mobility. I keep reminding myself that this is a temporary condition, which is humbling because it makes me think of people who adapt to permanent limited mobility and continue to lead long, successful, fulfilling lives. It doesn't make me like the crutches any more. It just makes me stop wimpering about them. A little. Cowgirl up.

I've also discovered a few little tricks and systems that have been really helpful in calling a truce with the crutches....

• Vons delivers groceries - literally anything you could buy at the store! Sheer brilliance.
• A barstool in the kitchen is extremly helpful while cooking and washing dishes. Not that I'm doing tons of either of those things. Mostly I just use it while making coffee.
• Throw-rugs and crutches do not play well together.
• When getting in the shower feels like preparing for a medical procedure, it really is more enjoyable to just sit on the sink and take a sponge bath.
• Friends really don't mind carrying baskets full of laundry to and from the laundry room when free Thai food and wine is part of the deal. And in between Thai food and wine nights, Febreeze is absolutely essential.
• There's nothing wrong with asking someone to stop by after work to take a bag of garbage out to the dumpster.
• Getting through those doors with the spring-loaded closing mechanism is very tricky. The best way I've come up with so far is to use one crutch as a door-stop while using the other crutch to gracefully GLIDE through the doorway. But really, if I can just get through the door in one piece, I feel like a total success.

Snap, crackle, POP goes the ankle!

The topic of this post diverges from my travel-themed posts of the past and future because in my present, right now, I have a broken ankle and I want to talk about it. I am a bad patient. I am struggling to see the bright side of things (yes, it could have been worse), I am resisting the idea of "adapting" to the crutches (I didn't want them in the first place and I don't want to make friends with them now), and I am independent to a fault (I have not yet come to terms with my limited mobility).

...but negativity isn't going to help anything. I need to see the bright side of things, I need to adapt, and I need to ask for help with stuff. I'll start with writing lists.

List #1: Things that are easy to do with a broken ankle.
- Sit on the couch
- Pet the cat
- Sip a glass of wine
- Tell the cat to pour more wine
- Watch the cat cough up a hairball on the couch

List #2: Things that are hard to do with a broken ankle.
- Walk
- Drive
- Change clothes
- Take a shower
- Carry things

List #3: The bright side of a broken ankle.
- Buff arms
- Decorating the cast
- Less leg surface to shave
- Taking elevators
- Having groceries delivered

(I feel better already)

List #4: Things I am looking forward to doing.
- Ordering pizza
- Washing my hair in the sink
- Having someone take out the trash for me
- Writing more lists
- Training the cat to pour wine

...okay, bedtime for me. The lists have definitely helped. I feel much better now, I look forward to writing more soon, and I'm excited to start sharing my stories from South America with you. But for tonight - hasta la pasta, buenas noches, and be carefull on those roller skates!

p.s. Official diagnosis: torn ligaments and non-displaced fracture of the distal tibia and the medial something-else due to overly confident attempt of roller derby maneuver. I'll survive. And derby rocks. :)