10/13/06 - Puerto Chicama

Jax and I began our journey through South America in Lima, Peru, where I learned about foreign currency, and ceviche (still the best I've ever had!), and backpacker hostels, and South American buses. After a few days in Lima, we traveled west to Huanchaco, a little beach town on the coast of Peru, where we stayed for a few days before continuing north to the infamous surf spot of Puerto Chicama.

My sister gave birth to a son (in California) while Jax and I were in Huanchaco. I will NEVER forget standing in my bare feet at a payphone on the beach, wearing the shorts and tank top I had slept in, and frantially trying to work my way through the Spanish commands on my international phone card. I finally gave up with the phone card and started making my way back to the hostel, feeling very defeated and very close to tears. An old man sitting in a folding chair on the sidewalk stopped me, asking what was wrong. My Spanish was still pretty limited and I just sort of blurted out, "Senor! Un bebe! Mi hermana! Un bebe nuevo! Oh, OH, mi una TIA! Mi hermana...uh...un bebe...uh...nuevo bebe!"

Jax walked up at some point and translated for me, explaining to the man that I needed to call my family in the United States. The old man considered me mildly, then shuffled into the little shop behind him, returning moments later with an old roatary phone. He held out his gnarled fingers and I pressed my phone card and the number to the hospital into his hand. He slowly dialed the numbers then spoke to the operator, handing the reciever to me just as the line crackled to life in California. I only spoke with my sister for a few minutes, but it was well worth it!

From Huanchaco, Jax and I took a bus to the dusty little town of Puerto Chicama, which is home to a world-famous surf break that, on a big day, is supposed to be rideable for more than TWO kilometers. Some surfers hire local men with motorboats to tow them back to the top of the wave after riding it more than a mile down the beach! Other surfers just walk.

Jax and I ended up staying in Chicama longer than planned because the surf reports said a big swell was on its way up the coast, and we figured it would be silly to travel all this way, just to miss the big wave by a day or two. I wasn't surfing at Chicama - I've never really gotten the hang of it but more than that, Chicama was just a little more intense than I felt comfortable diving in to. But I was more than content to just kick back and relax for a few days - the weather was beautiful, we were staying in a great little hostel with cool travelers, and there was plenty of exploring to be done.

The first email I sent home from the road was on October 13th...

Puerto Chicama...To Surf or Not to Surf...
Date: Oct 13, 2006 11:16 AM

Buenos dias!

We are now in Puerto Chicama, Peru. As those of you in the surfing world know, Chicama is a world-famous wave - a laft-hand break. On good days, a surfer can be barrelled in Chicama for one mile or more! Even so, there are not many tourists here, probably because it is not convenient to travel here. We are staying in a hostel called El Hombre, which has been around since the early 70´s. El Hombre sits on a huge bluff overlooking Chicama from about a half-mile away. The man who started El Hombre - the original hombre - is still around, and hangs out on the front porch of the hostel most days. Now his daughter runs the place - I only know her as Senora - and she is definately thë mother hen of the place! El Hombre is packed with surfers from all over the world and only a couple can speak (a little) English, so my castellano (spanish) is improving rapidly.

Jax is in heaven here!! While he´s out surfing I´´ve been exploring town, walking on the beach, reading, and writing....I even practiced a little yoga in a deserted cove yesterday! Today Jax ventured up to another beach called Pacasmayo with a couple of Aussies we met down in Huanchaco and I stayed back at El Hombre to hang out with the Senora and generally lounge about...maybe I´ll go for a jog later...

This part of Peru is true desert. It is very dry and windy here, although the beach is blocked somewhat by giant cliffs. From the edge of town, you can look for miles and miles across completely desolate land. The town of Puerto Chicama is very poor. All ¨roads´ are dirt, except for one which the buses use. Many homes have thatch (reed) rooves and some also have thatch walls. Walking around town I am instinctively cautious, although the people here have been very friendly. I have found it difficult to take photos in town because I feel both afraid (that my camera could be stolen) and embarrassed (that I have it). For now, I´ve taken as many photos as I can without being noticed.

** Observations **
- Chicken feet seem to be very popular in the markets here, though I have yet to try one!
- Most of the toilets do not have seats on them...you just have to perch delicately on the porcelain rim and make sure to bring your own paper!!!
- Showers are a luxury and hot water is a plus....dust, dirt, and mud are your friends.
- Ceviche is deliciooous and exceptionally fresh in these ocean towns....but sometimes a bit too fresh.

¡¡Cuidado!!

Okay gotta run now - ah never enough time!

Hasta luego,

Aubreyv