Tuesday, August 25, 2009

Pic of the Day - Tiny Argentinian Man Dances with Tall American Woman

This shot was taken in the beautifully eclectic neighborhood of La Boca in Buenos Aires, Argentina. Jax and I had been wandering through the neighborhood, casually shopping and taking in the sights, and we decided to stop at this little cafe for a glass of wine. Right after we sat down at one of the sidewalk tables, the couple in the photo began dancing the Tango, right in the middle of the street! At the end of their dance, the couple invited patrons of the cafe to dance with them (for tips, of course). I resisted at first, but the draw of Tango in the street was like the draw of karaoke - it seems like a really bad idea at first, but once the idea marinates for a few minutes, it becomes irresistible. So I let the man pull me up out of my chair and into the street, where he tried to make my awkward steps look graceful, to the laughs and cheers of other people in the street.

To this day I still don't know if those people were laughing at my lack of dancing skills, or the fact that my dance partner's eye-level was not one centimeter higher or lower than my boobs. This photo really doesn't do justice to our height difference, but take my word for it - I'm practically standing on my knees! And no, that is not my hat.

Thursday, August 20, 2009

Have you ever...

...forgotten that you put laundry in one of the communal washing machines, then remembered about it a couple of hours later and returned to the laundry room, only to discover that someone has piled your wet clothes on top of one of the driers with a Post-It note that not-so-delicately asks whether you would prefer to be "responsible" about using the machines or "donate" your clothes to the needy the next time you leave them unattended? Or is it just me?

I think that someone who enjoys the same communal laundry room as me has some Passive Aggressive issues happening...which is not to say that I don't appreciate a healthy dose of Passive Aggressive behaviour every now and again, on a strictly personal level. After all, I'm thinking of sticking Post-It notes in strategic places around the laundry room...the only part I'm uncertain about is what to say on my Post-Its.

Any ideas?

:)

Monday, August 17, 2009

An Interesting Juncture

I have reached an interesting juncture in the posting of my travel emails. Following the last email posted - Wine Country en Espanol - I only sent out two more emails from the road before Jax and I returned to the States. I will post those emails here, as I have posted previous emails, but you may notice that the following emails have a distinctly different tone than others I've shared with you. The reason for this difference is that Jax and I had also reached an interesting juncture. The relationship was over - neither one of us talked about it, but I think we both knew. We just sort of kept on keepin' on, pretending like everything was fine.

In a little town south of Mendoza, Jax and I had a bit of a medical emergency that shaped the course of our travels together. We returned to Mendoza, where we learned first-hand the bureaucracy of a foreigner staying in a government-funded Argentinian hospital for five days. The hospital administrators obviously didn't like the fact that an American citizen was receiving free care - it was very clear that they would provide emergency care as needed, but that we should have enough money to pay for care at a private hospital, rather than receive care funded by Argentinian tax-payers. We did have money, but we didn't know if it would be enough to pay for private care, and we were afraid to move to a new hospital. We had gotten ourselves TO a hospital and as far as we were concerned, that was the important part. So Jax and I stayed at the public hospital, where we were constantly encouraged to transfer to a private institution.

A translator was provided for us so the doctor could explain that foreigners usually prefer to seek care in the private hospitals because, as described in excruciating detail, theft and personal injury are rampant in the public hospital. Ironically (or maybe not so), a translator was never provided for the doctor to explain his diagnosis, or the treatment, or medications, or any of the things that were keeping us up at night. Luckily, we could understand just enough Spanish, and we both have just enough medical knowledge, that we were able to consult with my dad and mom (a doctor and nurse, respectfully) via telephone and feel like we had a solid understanding of what was happening. And for what it's worth, we never had any trouble with theft or "personal injury" at the hospital. In fact, with the exceptions of the hospital trying to get us to leave, and the confusion of trying to translate medical terms from Spanish to English, and the fact that patients at the hospital have to provide their own meals, our hospital experience was actually very smooth and pleasant.

From Mendoza, which is on the west side of Argentina, we flew to Buenos Aires, on the eastern coast of the country. Jax and I spent a few incredible days together in Buenos Aires, which I'll tell you all about in my next blog post. But we only had a couple of weeks left in South America before our flight home to California was scheduled to leave from Lima, and I had the Travel Itch again...BAD. I wanted to see as much of South America as I could before we had to go home. Jax was going to stay in Buenos Aires - that part was certain. I just couldn't sit still. I didn't feel good about leaving Jax, but he was with friends, and he understood why I had to go. Besides, by that time the emotional distance between us felt monumental, despite (or maybe because of) spending 24 hours a day together, and I think that as a direct result of that, the idea of traveling alone - without Jax - was not as scary as it would have been otherwise.

I didn't have any plans or intended destinations, but I did have money and I had two weeks with no obligations. So one afternoon while Jax was exploring with friends, I visited a travel agency in Buenos Aires and consulted with an agent as to how best to spend my remaining time in Argentina. Forty five minutes and $600 later, I walked back to our hostel to meet Jax, with two round-trip plane tickets in my purse - one between Buenos Aires and Iguazu, to the north, and one between Buenos Aires and El Calafate, to the south.

It was the first time I had ever made plans to travel alone in a foreign country. And that, my friends, is what my next few blog posts and travel emails are about. Coming soon, with photos! :)
Take care and travel safely!

Wednesday, August 12, 2009

Pic of the Day - Inspecting Bottles

I'll admit it - I was spying. We ran across a tiny winery (bodega) in a tiny town somewhere south of Mendoza, Argentina, and there was a warehouse on the grounds where I could see people working inside - wheeling equipment in and out, hosing out and stacking barrels, taking measurements of barrels' contents, and generally being very very busy. This woman caught my attention - she was sitting perfectly still and staring at empty bottles passing in front of her on a little conveyor belt with a big light machine behind them. The conveyor belt disappeared through a plastic curtain along with the empty bottles - I really wanted to find that room where the bottles were headed, as I had a sneaking suspicion they were about to be filled up! But alas, all the doors were locked and we couldn't get in.

Mmmmmm.....wine......

:)

Sunday, August 9, 2009

There is nothing quite like...

...hiking your boobs up to your chin, donning the sluttiest lipstick Mabeline has ever dared to produce, trooping down to the county fair with a gaggle of women you share a blood line with, having a few cocktails, and trying to set your mom up with a man who you don't realize: a) is the father of a guy you dated in high school, b) is very happily married (married men - PLEASE wear your damn ring), and c) thinks that YOU are hitting on him. Really. Nothing like it.

Friday, August 7, 2009

12/03/06 - Wine Country en Espanol

Hi folks!

It's 6:17 on Friday night - what are YOU up to? As for me - I'm easing into another beautiful weekend on the California coast with a new blogpost. :) This next email was sent from Mendoza, Argentina and as always, it's posted here exactly as it was originally sent out. It's funny to read these emails now, after all this time - some parts make me cringe at the cheesiness but mostly, they bring back incredible memories and make me wish I was still traveling. It really is true what they say about the Travel Bug - once you've been bit, you'll never fully recover!

In the email posted below, I wrote a little story about a wine-country tour that Jax and I did on bicycles with our friend Clare. I can't help noticing that the original email leaves out one of the most memorable parts of this story - the fact that Clare and I were both hopelessly hungover because we stayed up half the night before, drinking lots of wine and having lots of girl-talk (mostly about men, of course). Being hungover maybe doesn't sound like that big of a deal...until you're on a bicycle on a rough road in the hot sun and you have a huge headache and you run out of water and it's MILES in between stops and everyone is cranky and Auntie Flo makes an unexpected visit. Then being hungover is actually a VERY big deal, and makes for quite the memorable experience. This pic is a self-portrait taken after we arrived at the first bodega - already hungry and thirsty and tired - only to discover that it was closed! I think the expression says it all.

So without further adieu, here is the full email - happy reading, and happy travels!

Wine Country en Espanol
Date Dec 3, 2006 3:40 PM

Hola from Mendoza, Argentina - the heart of Argeninian wine country. Adios (or more correctly - hasta luego) to cra
ppy coffee, boxed wine, and cold showers! Mendoza is a very beautiful city - in appearance, atmosphere, people, culture, and of course - in vino. The streets of Mendoza are lined with giant sycamore trees which form leafy canopies high above the pavement. There is one hugely impressive plaza - Plaza Independencia - in the heart of the city. This main plaza is surrounded by four smaller ones, each situated three or four blocks diagonally from the corners of the main plaza. In the evenings (and into the night), artisans line the walkways which serpentine throughout the massive park area to display and sell their goods. In the center of the park/plaza, there is a giant, two-level, stone/marble/concrete area which is occupied simultaneously by a cluster of little cafe tables (yes there is also a cafe IN the park), various performers, a beautiful fountain (which reminds me of a smaller version of the one in front of the Bellagio in Las Vegas), and dozens of passers-by. It doesn't get dark here until 9PM or so; my favorite time of day is around 6 or 7PM, when the sidewalks are spotted with little shadows of dancing sycamore leaves.

It is not so unusual to see the sun rise in Argentina - everything seems to work on a different time system here. Siesta begins at noon, which means that all the shops and businesses close down. Depending on the city, siesta may last until 5 or 6PM, at which point everything opens up again, until anywhere from 9PM until midnight or later. Many businesses remain closed between start of siesta on Saturday and Monday morning. Restaurants do not open for dinner until 8PM...at the earliest. Restaurant patrons are never rushed away from a table. Rather, the general atmosphere tends to be
conducive to lounging, relaxing, and perhaps partaking in that after-dinner port or cocktail that you would otherwise pass up.

So back to my orignal topic - wine country. After exploring some of the wineries - bodegas - around Mendoza, I must say that I feel a bit spoiled in California! The wines itself are incredible virtually everywhere around Mendoza, but the ease in which the tasting room experience unfolds is not always so incredible....which I say in comparison to, for instance, Paso Robles or Sonoma. There are several provinces surrounding Mendoza which each individually have separate bodegas and champaigneras (spelling inaccuracy noted). On our first day here, we decided to explore the closest province, which is called Maipu (pronounced My-Poo). Lacking a vehicle (and not wanting to drive anyways) we rented bikes for the day, with our friend Clare.

Lesson of the day - look at the map before you leave! The roads in Maipu are unpaved (ie rocky and depending on the bike rider - potentially hazardous) and l-o-n-g. Most of the bodegas are at least several km apart. Some of the bodegas on the bike map are not open for tastings...but you can look at them through a gate. When you do find a bodega with a viable tasting room, you will maybe recieve a small sip of something not for sale, which I can tell you with confidence does not quench the type of thirst one might develop after having a hard plastic bike seat crammed up one's ass on a hot HOT day while on what would
seem to be a wild goose chase for a nice little wine buzz. ;)

That being said, we ended the day at an INCREDIBLE bodega called Tempus Alba, which is run by a very handsome older man and his two handsome sons - all three of whom assisted in quenching our healthy thirsts and graciously shared their winemaking passion with us. Tempus Alba has a huge patio (remniscent of that at Chateau Souvereign) overlooking their vineyards. We lounged on the patio sipping wine and chatting with other folks until the sun started sinking. I bought a bottle of wine to preserve the memory - I'm not sure how it will stand up to a few weeks in my backpack, but I plan to bring it home for Christmas!
We are staying in a great little h
ostel here. It is just off the plaza on the northwest corner of Plaza Independencia - one called Olaza Chile. I was sold the second I saw the garden here - it is paved with huge, flat, weathered-looking stones, with scattered shrubs and trees. One wall supports a mountain of bouganvillia and assorted other vines, all growing wild and bushy (like my hair). There is a plot of grass in the center, which is occupied by a unique assortment of garden ornaments - one small lemon tree, one mini palm tree, one rod-iron lamp post, and one GIANT gardenia bush, which currently displays a hearty bloom of large flowers in all of their sweet fragrant glory. I love gardenias - they remind me of my Grandpa Martin's old backyard.

I also realized today, while admiring the assorment of flowers in our hostel garden, that although I appreciate Mother Nature's purpose in creating The Bee, I have a ridiculously stubborn fear of such creatures (no matter how many time my mom tell me to 'just stand still'!
I hope to see you all soon!
Take care,
Aubrey